The big debate

In this article, I will evaluate why I believe we, the consumer and customer, should consider and make conscious decisions on what products we are using not just on our skin, but for aromatherapy, cleaning and so on. Is “Natural” the wholesome industry that it purports to be?

The use of nature, or of nature sources, to soothe ailments internally and externally, is not a modern concept. The earliest recordings of using herbs, flowers etc as medicines date back to ancient civilizations. In 400 B.C, Hippocrates wrote the first herbal medicine record (that we know of) in Greek. This practice has evolved immeasurably to modern day times, since the discovery of harvesting active constituents from our flora and fauna within laboratories experiments.  The innovation of bio-actives and beyond, which harness the cellular structure of even the smallest components of a plant, has opened new doors in cosmetic formulation and blurred the lines of what is deemed “natural skincare” - I will revisit this point later*

An example of this modification is the much-used Botox. Originally derived from the bacterium *Clostridium botulinum*, it's now replicated in laboratories and is used as a common cosmetic treatment. Similarly, ingredients like hyaluronic acid and peptides, often found in everyday face creams, have fascinating origins and uses. Take Hyaluronic acid, first discovered in a cow’s eye. It naturally moisturizes and lubricates, and is also found in our joints; it is a lubrication powerhouse.  As we age, our natural levels of hyaluronic acid deplete, causing not only pain in our joints, but also dryness in the epidermal levels, which is why it’s a key ingredient in anti-aging formulations. To harness it in a laboratory, scientists discovered that they could extract hyaluronic acid from rooster combs, but the demand for a more ethical approach led to the synthesis of hyaluronic acid from corn fermentation. This shift not only addresses ethical concerns but also ensures a sustainable and consistent supply. However, there is still a sustainability concern of where it comes from in terms of then carbon footprint as Hyaluronic acid is typically procured from Laboratories in China.

Understanding the origins and evolution of these ingredients helps us appreciate the blend of nature and science in modern skincare. The journey from ancient herbal remedies to these before mentioned sophisticated bio actives, highlights the continuous innovation aimed at enhancing our health and beauty in a more ethical and sustainable manner.

But, what about an ingredient that is not readily synthesised or duplicated in a lab environment? An ingredient that is considered “pure”? For instance, unadulterated carrier and essential oils, or seed butters and waxes? And this is where I want to step in and ask our consumers to consider whether natural, using ingredients resourced from the direct source of a plant, is beneficial for us and the protection of our planet. The Aromatherapy and "Natural" industries are booming, but at what cost?

Anyone who is familiar with me, and my ethos, will have heard my lamenting (or ranting) about the use of Frankincense oil. This oil, obtained from the resin of the Boswellia tree, has been heralded as the miracle anti-aging oil that, indeed, it is. There are currently four (and counting) species from the Boswellia genus resin available as an essential oil in New Zealand: Boswellia serrata, Boswellia carterii (both from India) Boswellia thurifera from Saudi Arabia and Boswellia neglecta from Kenya. This is not including all the many supplements that also contain variations of the whole genus.  The discussion on the use of this precious resin is very complex. Over-exploitation and eco-system degradation through burning the crops and farming threaten frankincense’s continued viability. The resin is obtained by making an incision into the tree and then heating to collect the oil. Every time an incision is made it can take many years for the tree to recover. The tree is slow growing, and therefore a crop can take many many years to recover. A study, in 2021, conducted by the Royal Botanic Garden in Edinburgh declared the species as under threat from over harvesting. The species is currently under discussion with Cites (Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species of Wild Fauna and Flora) of how it can be extracted sustainably and how to also ensure a stable and fair supply chain.

Then there are other considerations when we look at the impact of sourcing other “pure” ingredients:

For instance, let us take a closer look at Sweet almond oil, a vitamin rich oil made from the cold pressing of Almond nuts. It is a preferred base carrier oil in many cosmetics and is usually procured from Spain. However, the nuts need a mammoth 1.1 gallons of water per nut to mature.

Essential oils, too, require an extensive volume of plant matter to obtain the essence of a plant. For example, according to DoTerra, to distil just 5mls of Rose damask essential oil, you need over 240,000 rose petals.

I would also like to put forward another school of thought, called Hubbert’s curve. According to Hubbert, the discovery of a resource, be it animal, mineral, flora or fauna is followed by four phases. Phase one, the resource is discovered and heralded as the next big thing, easy to procure and in abundance. Phase two, the resource is in high demand and more capital and means are used to obtain the resource. In Phase three, the means and the capital become too high as the resource dwindles and is harder to extract in comparison to the demand driving it. This Hubberts Peak. The resource begins it’s decline into Phase four; the availability diminishes, and the resource becomes endangered or even extinct. Hubbert predicted, using this curve, the overuse and then decline of Oil in the 1970’s, and it can also be attributed to other resources such as petroleum. We can also use it to observe what might happen if over harvest or over mine minerals such as Mica, trees that are only slowly renewable such as the Boswellia tree, and even to Lithium. Human’s have a great capacity to consume, and it is time to really question whether that consumption is sustainable for our planet’s diverse future.

In conclusion, as “natural’ ingredients are becoming more mainstream and more desirable, we must ask the question is “pure” and natural good? There are steps in place to protect our flora and fauna, for instance, with the example of the Sweet Almond oil; a new irrigation system is in place for the Almonds grown in California that could pave the way for how future Almonds are grown and subsequently sourced. FairTrade has ensured that the farmers who grow and cultivate ingredients such as Shea butter and Cocoa butter are fairly treated and equitably paid. 

So, in essence, not only is there a possible negative effect of procuring finite resources on a person’s livelihood, but also the procurement of the resource could have a negative impact on our precious planet, the effect of consuming too many finite resources will affect the delicate balance of the Earth. And here lies the question for you; where your values lie; how important is it to you whether the oil that you put on your face has come from a tree that is in rapid decline and sourced by a farmer who is not paid fairly and equitably.  Where is your line with this? You as the consumer can choose.

The questions I put to you:

• Is the ingredient readily renewable? – For instance, the beautiful Castor oil is easily grown and grows back quickly with little need to water.
• Is there an environmental impact to the harvesting or procurement or production of the ingredient* - And this includes the carbon footprint of the ingredient, where is from?
• Who is involved with harvesting and manufacturing? For instance, Mica, the colourful mineral found in multiple cosmetic products, has been attributed to child slave labour (please see the references in the appendix)

I want to also add that as more of us are becoming aware of the issues cited in this discussion, much work is under way to find more viable solutions, it is always a work in progress, and I will keep updated with it.

For White Cloud, there will always be adjustment and changes to the formulations as I keep on top of what I believe to be sustainable and ethical choices for the ingredients. I have changed a couple of formulations recently from Candellila wax to Beeswax. My reasons for doing so will be in a blog post coming out soon.

*The world of “natural” is changing, hence why you are seeing more terms like “clean”, “toxin free”, “green”. Natural can have many many different meanings in this day and age, it is up to you where you stand with it.

References (web)

 https://www.skincarelab.org/hyaluronic-acid/

Hyaluronic Acid | Definition of Hyaluronic Acid by Lexico (archive.org)

Questionnaire on Decision 18.205 on Boswellia trees | CITES

Paper on the reporting of Frankincense E-CoP19-63.pdf (cites.org)

Frankincense · Encyclopedia of Smell History and Heritage (odeuropa.eu)

Child Labour in Mica Mines: the Beauty Industry’s dark secret | FairPlanet

Mica Mining Exposes Child Labor In The Makeup Industry (refinery29.com)

Almonds & Sustainability: The Truth About Almonds & Water Use (foodrevolution.org)

How Much Water Does It Take to Grow an Almond and Almond Trees? (greenmatters.com)

Frankincense in peril | Nature Sustainability: Bonger, Frank et al. (2019). Frankincense in Peril. Nature Sustainability.

Bilbliography:

Mancuso, Stefano (2019). The Nation of Plants, A radical manifesto for humans.